CHATHAM, MA- Warm weather arrived in Cape Cod before the summer crowds and the tension is palpable in Chatham, MA — a small town situated on the elbow of the island–the weekend before Memorial Day. Stores are fully stocked with all manner of memorabilia featuring black dogs and white sharks. Workers have returned from college to take their posts at cafes and boutiques and everyone stands poised for the summer to begin like sprinters in the blocks waiting for the starting gun.
The Black Dog is old. Founded as a tavern on Martha’s Vineyard in 1971, the brand is now more famous for its ubiquitous logo t-shirts which can be seen all over the world. White sharks are a newer addition to Cape Cod, moving in to prey on the increasing population of grey seals that now inhabit the islands’ coast. 2012 saw a record number of white shark sightings in the area and with the seal population growing, 2013 promises to be another banner year for beach closings. Rather than ignore it, the residents of Chatham have chosen to embrace the elephant in the room, re-branding their town as the “Summer Home of the White Shark.” Like the Black Dog, there are now teeth-baring white shark logos emblazoned on t-shirts, posters, coffee mugs and, of course in this digital day and age, a Facebook page and Twitter feed. When you can’t beat the shark, brand it and make him pay!
The Chatham Bars Inn is a short walk to town and boasts amazing ocean views and an impressive fleet of vessels from which guests can enjoy the water. The CBI flotilla consists of; the Star Fish, a Carolina Blue Viking 51, the Bartender a wooden beach launch made locally by Pease Boat Works, the Harbor Star, a French made 26′ Wooden sailboat and the Lob Star, an open cabin power boat . All were in use on this weekend, the Viking was out on a whale watch, the sailboat was cruising with guests and the Bartender deposited us on North Island to explore after buzzing some beached, shark-baiting seals.
We found the remains of what looked like a vicious prehistoric predator on North Island Beach, a short boat ride from the Inn. After showing photos to our trusty captain, Steve, we learned that it was a Goosefish. The Goosefish, found on menus as Monkfish, is a nasty-looking bottom dweller but feeds on lobsters, clams and other tasty crustaceans making its flesh a delicacy as well. Goosefish are also known to prey on Dovekies, small Arctic seabirds that are part of the Puffin family, by deploying it’s modified dorsal fin as a lure and tricking the birds into diving to the sea floor where they are promptly inhaled(!). While not quite Great White level predators, any fish that eats a bird is a pretty legitimate hunter. North Island is also home to foxes and at least two coyotes that swam over from the main island and eat the eggs laid by shorebirds in the grassy dunes.
I’ve talked a lot about animals and predators but there is plenty for humans to eat as well. A visit to the Chatham Pier Fish Market is a mandatory stop. Check out the days catch and have an authentic Lobster Roll that tastes exactly like summer to winterized taste buds.
I highly recommend taking a chomp out of Chatham, just don’t go in the water…
